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planning stages - when you don't know what to do...
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tashabear
tashabear
planning stages
So I got busy with a sketchbook and architectural scale tonight and drew a 1/8"=1" scale drawing of the cutting layout for my apron dress, based on this pattern. How wrong I was when I said it was a lot of fabric!

Friends and neighbors, I can cut this dress out of slightly more than 2 yards of 54" wide fabric. And when I say "slightly more," I mean three inches. I could squeeze it out of two yards even by making the skirt just slightly shorter (at the length I drew it for tonight, it's at the bottom of my calf, plus hem). And I still have a bottom circumference of roughly 120"! I may have to re-think my undergown, and make a Greenland gown or something similar; the one I wear under my sarafan is nowhere near wide enough. Luckily I have one made, so I can try it out and see.

The tunic on the Swedish site doesn't look terribly wide, though -- I wish I thought it would be cool enough to wear all three layers! At this rate, though, I may be able to make a complete outfit for Panteria. I have 5 yards x 60" wide dark red herringbone wool-blendy stuff that would make a fabulous apron dress, and some taupe or some olive wool for a tunic, and white crinkle for an underdress, and that'll still leave me enough to make a warm outfit for Wolfie. I'll need longies, though... I suppose I could knit me some legwarmers and tie them in place. Actually, leg warmers aren't a bad idea, but I'll do the knee-high version and happy pants above. I can make garters to tie the leg warmers with and then wool socks! Oh, I'm gonna be the warmest girl there. Yay me!

Oof -- I should get to bed. The cold demands I sleep. Bastard.

Edit: Before I went to bed, I took at look at the pattern for the wrinkled undergown on the Swedish site. I'll be damned if it's not slightly less complex than my rubahka pattern! The rubakha pattern has side panels so the body isn't too wide, but other than that, it's almost exactly the same! Sweet!

i feel: creative creative

16 trips or shoot the rapids
Comments
From: ex_misschili604 Date: February 7th, 2004 03:28 am (UTC) (base camp)
Oh, I should have dug up my apron dress pattern. I'd thought it was online, but the actual pattern seems to be missing. I also had the experience of using very little fabric for my dress. Want the pattern anyway?
tashabear From: tashabear Date: February 7th, 2004 08:47 pm (UTC) (base camp)

Re:

Yeah, sure! Never hurts to have more research material.
From: ex_misschili604 Date: February 8th, 2004 10:39 am (UTC) (base camp)

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From: ex_misschili604 Date: February 8th, 2004 10:42 am (UTC) (base camp)

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Oh, and if you want to have another pattern that uses very little fabric and turns out a very wearable (if not entirely historically valid) dress:
http://www.norsefolk.com/clothing/gr56underdress.html
tashabear From: tashabear Date: February 8th, 2004 12:38 pm (UTC) (base camp)

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Ooh. I like that. I shall have to try it, though it'll need to be wider, I think. Or maybe not... two panel at 19" wide each, plus two underarm panels each 8" wide = 54", less seam allowance is plenty for a 50" bust (if I make narrow allowances). Did you wear it under an apron dress? How did it look?
From: ex_misschili604 Date: February 9th, 2004 12:40 am (UTC) (base camp)

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I've worn it many times under apron dresses, and it's lovely. Of course, it produces a v-neckline, not a keyhole neckline, if you'd wanted to use a brooch.
tashabear From: tashabear Date: February 9th, 2004 12:51 am (UTC) (base camp)

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It v's in the back, too, yeah? I could always piece in bits to cover that, if I didn't like it; that's no big deal. It's an interesting exercise, plus it's nice to make something no one in my household knows how to make. They're all coathardies and kirtles and Tudors and Italian Ren; I'm the lone voice for earlier period. Especially if I can make a Viking outfit look more tailored -- I'm afraid that all they think when they think Viking is "shapeless sack," and it doesn't have to be.
From: ex_misschili604 Date: February 9th, 2004 04:53 am (UTC) (base camp)

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Oh, yeah, it's a double v-neck.

Can't wait to see what you're working on! We definitely need more people to show that Viking garb isn't all frumpy.
cadenzaallli From: cadenzaallli Date: February 7th, 2004 10:47 am (UTC) (base camp)
i bow down to you...! i hope to learn to love dress-making someday. :-0
tashabear From: tashabear Date: February 7th, 2004 09:26 pm (UTC) (base camp)

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Whell when you only need to make three cuts and sew something like 8 seams, it's a lot easier to love. (Of course, after that comes the fitting and the tweaking, but that's the basic idea.)

I should probably scan the layouts, huh?
cadenzaallli From: cadenzaallli Date: February 7th, 2004 09:54 pm (UTC) (base camp)

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i will take your word for that, for now. ;D by all means, scan and post the layouts!

feroluce From: feroluce Date: February 7th, 2004 12:52 pm (UTC) (base camp)
i'm highly curious as to what you're doing this for... i recognize some of these terms, but i havent done nearly enough costuming/period research! do you have a page anywhere of things you've made in the past? cause it sounds like you've got quite a bit of experience in all this, and i'm always interested to learn more where i can.
tashabear From: tashabear Date: February 7th, 2004 09:52 pm (UTC) (base camp)

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I'm making garb for my wedding -- it's modeled on a period Viking wedding. I don't have many pictures of what I've done, but I find I work best if I plan and plan and visualize and plan some more. I spent two days planning the last smock I made, and it turned out really well. Of course, the spandy new cutting table I had to work on may have helped, but I certainly felt more confident going in when I had planned it out really well.

The pattern is here. I had to change it a bit for my measurements. The outfit I'm basing mine around is here. I just showed it to my mom tonight; the girl in the photo has no boobs and no butt and Mom was concerned that there were no darts to shape the dress to my bust. Don't need em! I can do all the shaping necessary in the seams.

I've been sewing SCA garb since I started, back in '98, and the more I learn about period patterns, the better I like them -- they're amazingly efficient if you lay them out correectly, and usually easier to sew! I'm actually looking forward to drafting a tunic pattern for my warm set of clothes; it should be an interesting challenge!
feroluce From: feroluce Date: February 7th, 2004 10:16 pm (UTC) (base camp)

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that's beautiful :) i admire your dilligence. at the moment, i only have the time and money to knit, but more sewing and spinning WILL follow... my dream house has a fiber/fabric room, i swear.

i'm actually planning to help my mother create a traditional norwegian costume soon, the one that's been in our family since the late 1600's is looking... a little worn.

i need to learn how to do shaping better, because... i have boobs and a butt too! and i just get intimidated by less fitted patterns, and look elsewhere. heh.
tashabear From: tashabear Date: February 8th, 2004 11:40 am (UTC) (base camp)

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Well, I also like the fact that I can lay out the patterns with a yardstick. What you need to remember with simple patterns is that you don't need darts or princess seams to create shape -- you make a seam allowance deeper here and there, or rip a seam and resew it at a slightly different angle. I have one dress that is too long in the back, and has also faded. I plane to rip all the seams, and sew it back together right side out, and make the back bodice shorter so I don't have excess fabric bunching across the small of my back.

Try making a Duct Tape Dummy, and playing with less fitted patterns to give them some shape. You can do a lot with straight seams.
feroluce From: feroluce Date: February 8th, 2004 05:20 pm (UTC) (base camp)

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i've been meaning to do one of those dummies for a while now... this might be just the inspiration i need :)
16 trips or shoot the rapids